How to: Shop Vintage Jeans

Vintage denim is highly sought after, but how do you find your own pair?

Denim is an integral part of a modern woman's wardrobe. Whether you wear it every day or only on occasion having a pair of jeans that makes you feel sexy and confident is super important. And if you're not somehow a devoted denim lover you've probably wondered what all the fuss is about vintage jeans. Let's dive into that.

First of all let's discuss why vintage jeans are so in demand. It's been the best kept secret of fashion girls for years, but now that everyone and their sisters have caught the vintage jeans bug the secret is out. Vintage jeans are just better. The quality of the materials was higher and the mills where denim used to be produced were much better. They didn't have the technology to cut corners like modern factories do, so everything was made the traditional way. You'd be hard pressed to find a pair of vintage jeans that aren't 100% cotton, unlike today where you have to really search stores for rigid jeans.

100% cotton denim is better, even the modern pairs are better than any other type produced today. Maybe I'm just biased, but I wore super stretch jeans for years and years and never fell in love with jeans until I put on a pair of 100% cotton Levi's 501s. And after catching the bug for vintage denim I've never looked back. Not only does it last longer but the way it molds to your unique shape is something blended fabric jeans just can't recreate. The stiff, rigid denim wears in beautifully. Yes it's uncomfortable at first, I can't deny that, but after a handful of wears you'll have the perfect pair. This type of denim ages very well, the way it fades and whiskers is super unique to full cotton jeans. Vintage jeans are a testament to that quality, as the most sought after pairs are worn in and faded blue jeans. It's also flattering in that it doesn't stretch so it holds you in and lifts you up. The reason so many companies are scrambling to make vintage inspired jeans is because they are so flattering in all the right places.

Now, here's how to find your own pair.

Sizing

We'll begin here since it's incredibly important. You can't shop vintage denim by your modern size. If you are a 26 today you'll have to go up at least one size in vintage denim. They were made smaller decades ago.

Here are my top tips for this:

• Know your measurements. The most important measurement to know is your waist size in inches. Lay your best fitting jeans on the floor and measure the waist across. For example: my jeans measure 11.5", doubling that number gets me my modern numeric size, a 23.

• Know the rise you're after. Not all vintage jeans are high rise, so if you're after a high rise pair make sure the rise is at least 10". Measure from the crotch straight up to the waistband to find the rise.

• Always check the length before you buy. If you're looking for a long pair that hits your ankle you need to know your inseam. A lot of vintage pairs have a cropped length, especially if you buy from places that re-work vintage denim.

Style

This is where it gets more technical. The names of jeans, especially with Levi's, can be confusing. There are a lot of different names for the fit of jeans so you need to know how to spot a skinny from a straight from a wide-leg.

• Straight fit: This style doesn't taper from hip to the ankle. It's the same width from the thigh to the ankle. Flattering on the butt when paired with a high rise and very leg lengthening. A modern straight leg jean would be the 501 original fit or Ribcage Jean from Levi's

• Slim Straight fit: Like a straight leg except cut closer to the leg. Fits slim to the thigh and cut straight from the knee down. A modern example would be the Levi's 501 Skinny fit.

• Skinny fit: Tight from the hips to the ankle. Narrow ankle opening and hugs the body close. Sometimes called a 'jegging'. A modern skinny jean from 7 For All Mankind

• Wide-Leg fit: Cut loose from hip to ankle, wider and more flared than a straight fit. Usually high rise and with a shorter inseam that hits above ankle. Modern wide-leg fit by BCBG.

• Flare fit: Fitted from hip to knee, widens at knee if a true flare. Some flare jeans widen slightly before or after the knee. This style commonly comes in both cropped and full length. Modern example of Flares from Express.

• Bootcut fit: Like a flare, tight from hip through thigh and slightly widens after the knee. Less wide of a flare than flare jeans. Some styles called baby-boot have very subtle widening and may appear to look like a slim straight fit. Boot-cut example from Everlane.

Where to Find Vintage Jeans

Online is by far the easiest way to shop hundreds of thousands of vintage jeans. You can try thrift stores, though. Even estate sales and garage sales could have options, albeit very limited.

Online Options:

• eBay: this is a high commitment way to shop vintage jeans. While you can find them at just $15 you have to sift through several pages to find ones that might fit. Bidding also tends to raise prices if what you've found is highly sought after. If you look at eBay make sure you're in the vintage section and use your filters. Patience and determination win here.

• Etsy: another fairly high commitment website for vintage denim. Etsy tends not to have vintage jeans for less that $40, but no bidding means easier buying and no price wars. I've found that using filters and typing your size into the search bar work best for providing results. Most prices tend to hover around $100 - $200, however some shops might be willing to go down slightly if you inquire kindly in a message. Make sure you are in the vintage market if you try etsy.

• Re/Done: This is where to go for a high end experience. This company works alongside Levi's and finds vintage denim and reworks it. It's not the place to go if you want just plain vintage jeans as they tend to dye and rework and distress the denim before selling it. This website does take a lot of the guesswork out of shopping vintage.

Important note: When doing online vintage shopping you're unlikely to be able to return what you purchase. This is why knowing your measurements is extremely important. I'd suggest even going to a local store to try on 100% cotton jeans before you purchase a vintage pair to get a feel of what they're like. If a seller doesn't have measurements on the listing ask for them. Even being fully prepared with all your measurements doesn't always mean they'll work out for you, there is always a slight risk when shopping online.

In Person Options:

• Thrift Stores: An obvious place to search, thrift stores might offer a chance to find vintage jeans. Unfortunately it takes a lot of sifting through racks and piles to unearth gems in these places but the cheap prices tend to make it worth it.

• Specialty Shops: Like basic thrift stores without the hard work of separating the good from the bad, the people who run these stores do the hard work of tracking down good pieces for you. The offerings are still pretty limited but they'll update their stock constantly. Prices will be higher than thrift stores.

• Garage Sales/Estate Sales: You never know what you can unearth at these, I've gotten very lucky at them finding vintage designer clothes and accessories. The prices are usually generously cheap and bartering is always an option.

• Special Events: Some towns might have vintage sellers at weekly or monthly farmer's markets. In Kalamazoo, MI there is a market held every few months called Vintage in the Zoo where several vintage vendors come and sell their goods in a farmer's market setting. Search your local events for similar markets.

Important Note: Always try on the denim before buying it if possible. Most thrift stores do have fitting rooms, as do specialty stores. If you have the option to try them on, take it.

Now you have the basics for finding your own vintage jeans, happy denim hunting!

-Sam